Elisa Pomar is a Ibiza based jewelry designer, we wanted to know the insights of her brand and we sent our collaborator Natalia from On Ibiza Clouds to have a chat with her. Hope you enjoy her world.
VMI. Your family has a long tradition in jewelry, even have rescued pieces already in disuse. Has your career marked this?
EP. A lot, because when school was finished I went straight to the workshop of my father, next to the old market and spent the afternoon doing my homework. I used to see the customers come in to have antique pieces fixed or requested to make similar ones.A nice example of recovery of an old piece which I can recall was that of the “Clauer”, a piece that had already thought to been lost. Fortunately, a friend of my father, resident of Santa Gertrudis, had one that his family had kept over the years and allowed us to reproduce and add it to our collection. it inspired me to not only be a designer but also study and explore all traditional Ibizan jewelry, the family heritage opened my eyes from a different artistic angle that maybe otherwise would not have been possible.
VMI. ¿What is the “Emprendada”?
EP. The “Emprendada” is the set of jewels that the Ibizan woman carries. The oldest were silver and coral, it consists of a large Rosary, a cross and several small silver lockets with pictures of Saints, above they wear a “Agustinada” which are seven laps of coral necklace and 24 silver rings.They only worked with silver because there was no gold, not until the arrival of the pirates that introduced gold and created a change from silver to golden jewelry. The gold “Emprendada” reflects this evolution and consists of the cord, the “Agustinada” of 9 laps, three necklaces with diamond form, called “Gra d’ordi”, a cross with Crown and a jewel with a reliquary, 24 buttons at sleeves and 24 rings. All in 18-karat gold and crafted by hand. In Ibiza, by tradition, only men inherited land and houses. Rings were a gift from groom to his bride and demonstrated the wealth they had, showcased up to 24 rings. The “Emprendada” was the only thing that women inherited from generation to generation and used to receive it as a dowry to marry.
VMI. Are your jewels a reproduction of typical Ibizan jewelry or an interpretation?
EP. I work a lot for the Ibiza collas, traditional dance groups and when they ask me for pieces I investigate through images or existing parts and reproduce them.
When it comes to my own collection I can fully interpret. I am inspired by the “Emprendada”, the Ibizan woman, the island, the sun, the beach, the shells, the stars… in everything that Ibiza gives me, I need the island to be inspired.
They have been here so many civilizations that have left their energy and it is still floating around. The island evolves and is an ideal place for artists and people like me, especially in winter, although it feels to me like paradise I need to leave the island to return and value it.
VMI. How do the original ibizan people value and look at your brand?
EP. At the beginning I had great fear of the reactions they might have when I started changing everything because the people of Ibiza are very traditional and I felt obliged to make them understand.I owe everything to the natives of Ibiza and they are my most important customers, I want to do things that they enjoy and my relationship with them is very special and fruitful.
A new different approach and interpretation could have led to misunderstanding or even offending them ,but they perfectly understood there are old parts that are not altered, requiring research and study as opposed to what’s new which is the fruit of my imagination.Our close relationship grows and becomes stronger every day, my aim is to make women feel proud in a comfortable way wearing my jewelry as a piece of their own history. I feel I have achieved this which makes me proud and happy.
VMI. What type of woman wears your jewelry?
EP. All kinds of women. Lately I have many young clients who are in search for a gift from a very fine collection, i also have pieces in rose gold that have a good demand for communion, older women like them a lot . there are also requests for events, models and designers (Dolce & Gabbana for example ) that have showed my jewelry on the main catwalks around the globe. I have a wide range to choose from, from simple to sophisticated pieces, for all types of women. I have tried to focus on my collections for the largest number of women possible, taking into account that we, as woman have a complex nature.The only type of woman who might not feel close to my jewelry are the ones that like a minimalist style, because Ibizan jewelry has a complex, exaggerated and powerful expression, i also design a more minimalistic collection to cover everyones needs.
VMI. Do you make custom orders for clients or collaborations?
EP. I love it when a client explains what she wants, what outfit she has in mind so i get a better overview , it is a psychological process that i love , investigate and explore until it feels good for me and my customer , i believe custom jewelry reflects the creative soul of the designer and should suit the customers vision.It is a beautiful process, getting to know the person, know the occasion in which the jewel will be used, know the person’s tastes, their personality and be fully aware with the situation in order to create. To be creative you have to be sensitive.
VMI. What do you think that it is the reason why Dolce & Gabbana have chosen your jewelry repeatedly for their catwalks?
EP. They are very Mediterranean, very sensitive, very near and they love tradition. Basically i think what they like is very similar to what I do.The first time, many years ago, they came to my shop I did not recognize them, artistic, very down to earth friendly people. The advice that they always give me is that I have to keep up the tradition because it is what distinguishes people, if not we would all be the same. It’s very interesting to work with tradition and they love to add a touch of modern or extravagant. It is something that I like also and the Mediterranean roots unite us. For them tradition is sacred, they give a lot of importance to it and my pieces represent all this, also they match very well with their Couture dresses.
Ibiza is faithful to a mix of tradition and emerging trends.
VMI. They accepted suggestions when choosing pieces or had a very clear mission?
EP. They have quite clear ideas. On their last visit I was asked to chose 24 rings, i had only two days and thank goodness ti had them in stock. They trusted me and took them all.
They are geniuses, they have their own taste and personal vision on everything. We had a good feedback and learned from each other. They love to spend an entire month in Ibiza and enjoy the island, and they always come to visit. We always treat them very well and they feel at home. They are passionate about Ibiza because it has everything, party, peace and tradition.
VMI. Are they interested in the history of each piece?
EP. They love history, the last time I gave them a collection of old photos and stories of Ibiza because they enjoy it very much. I have suggested to make a tribute to the Ibizan woman.
Our traditional jewelry had never left Ibiza ceremonies before and we are now in the most important runways in the world, i feel honored.I love everything of Italy, we have much in common, the Italians like Spain and we like Italy. We are all very passionate in what we do.
VMI. Do you feel aesthetically satisfied with the way that Dolce & Gabbana combine your jewelry?
EP. A lot, I’m very happy, very proud and I am grateful every day. I am very grateful because thanks to them I have been able to reach another kind of audience that perhaps had not understood this type of jewelry. While it is true that whoever likes it likes it, to see my pieces in Dolce & Gabbana’s fashion shows has opened doors for me.
VMI. Have you noticed a change on how people perceive your brand after being in the most important catwalks of the world?
EP. Yes, people congratulate me, Ibizan people are proud of their jewelry being seen , respected and used around the world.I have come to realize the importance of advertising, I have been for a year working with an agency and attended events and parades that I have been invited to. It is a constant work and you really have to feel passion about it because it is not always easy. Still, what gives me more enthusiasm and strength are the people from here and close to me that continue to support me as they do. I need a lot of support, I surround myself with people that help me and that show me love. I have a very good team, Maria, who is always here and controls everything, my brother David who is in charge of social networks and models and always pushes me forward, my husband also helps me a lot and gives me courage, my family, you that come and do interviews, people… contact. I am very grateful.
VMI. Can you reveal something about your upcoming collection?
EP. This year is the first time the Pasarela Adlib are giving me the opportunity to parade alone. I started on the Pasarela Adlib with Eva Cardona, but the year after her debut Adlib did not allow her to participate because she is from Formentera. Since then I have paraded next to my friend Toni Bonet that has always made me feel very special, he has given me my space and we work very well together.
Because it is the first time that I participate alone I want to prepare something very special and extravagant. I want to use crystals because they are very powerful and look great in runways . A lot of gold and Swarovski. I can do what I want, with my music, my styling… and I couldn’t be happier. Thank you for taking the time Elisa
Images: Elisa Pomar and Dolce & Gabbana archive